An Elephant in Captivity

The capture operation was carried out by the Karnataka Forest Department and was a huge success. The captured elephants were taken to the Dubare Elephant Camp to be domesticated. Not a very gentle procedure to say the least; it includes starvation and confinement! Tragically, the elephants suffer deep emotional and physical wounds that last a lifetime!

A Elephant in Confinement

Not all things are right in Paradise; to experience the beauty of Coorg, it is also essential to know some of the pain hidden beneath.

Bylakuppe is the location of “Lugsum Samdupling” (established in 1961) and “Dickyi Larsoe” (established in 1969), two adjacent Tibetan refugee settlements. These settlements were established on land leased by the state government to accommodate some of the Tibetan refugees who came to resettle in India after 1959. Bylakuppe is comprised of a number of agricultural settlements /small camps close to each other, and has several monasteries, nunneries and temples in all the major Tibetan Buddhist traditions. Most notable among them include the large educational monastic institution Sera, the smaller, Tashilunpo monastery (both in the Gelukpa tradition) and Namdroling monastery (in the Nyingma tradition).

Interiors of the Golden Temple at Bylakuppe, Coorg

The most famous monastery among these is the Namdroling Monastery, popularly known as the Golden Temple. In the main building, one can see three huge statues, all arrayed with gold cladding, with Buddha displayed in the center, flanked by Guru Rinpoche on the left and Buddha Amitayus on the right. The walls are adorned with a lot of beautiful frescos. Fascinatingly, this is a ‘living’ monastery and one can see the monks go about their daily lives here.

A Beautiful Fresco Adorning the Wall of the Golden Temple

Kudos to this small slice of Tibet in India!

Unique Forest Flowers at Coorg

For one, the river Cauvery herself originates here at Coorg – offering a glorious site for the religious. For the adventure lovers, it offers an opportunity for white water rafting in the river. And for those who love fishing, Coorg has just the place – Valnoor! The fishing camp at Valnoor draws people from all over the country. Did you know that Valnoor is among the most beautiful angling sites in Karnataka?

Reflections at the Valnoor Fishing Camp

Valnoor is located on the backwaters of the Cauvery. As I entered this area, I could feel the spellbinding calmness. Even a careless leap of a fish in the water, or the drop of a dried fruit from the trees could be heard. Pin drop silence is what this place fosters. Over the years, Valnoor has cast a sort of spell both on anglers and those who want to test their fishing skills. Ever thought of catching the famous Mahseer on your fishing hook?

I for one was apprehensive about it and did not try fishing. Instead, I fished out some information about other salient things I observed standing there. Intrigued by the name Mahseer (a.k.a. Golden Mahseer), I made a note and came back to read about it. The facts were rather interesting; the Mahseer is known to be among the largest freshwater game fish as well as one of the most stubborn and aggressive fish in the world. ‘Stubborn?’ – How do they discover that?

Valnoor is home to various species of fish. These include Mahseers, Marals and Mapps. However, Mahseers and Marals are considered to be prized catches, though found in abundance. Many organizations conduct Mahseer fishing and Eco tours to the river Cauvery, Valnoor being the starting point. These tours are designed for serious anglers who want to explore all the legendary fishing spots for the Mahseer along the Cauvery. The fishing begins at the picturesque Valnoor fishing camp, before moving downstream to Doddamakali, Bheemeshwari, and finally to Galibore. Did you know that the Mahseer is considered the ‘Tiger’ of Indian rivers?

The Valnoor fishing camp facilitates a regular fishing license from the Coorg Wildlife Society for those who are serious about fishing. It is better to have permission from the authorities and your own fishing equipment when you plan to visit Valnoor (the best season being from October to May). And did you know that mornings are the ideal time to sight some fish in action?

•  Preventing soil erosion
•  Providing shade, plants and life
•  Bringing rains
•  Supplying oxygen
•  Becoming a source of springs

Let me introduce to you a very traditional, practical, and contemporary system of environment protection in Kodagu that has been in operation for decades, if not a great deal longer: the ‘Devarakadus’.

Through the ages, trees have played a dominant role in human evolution. They have provided for every basic need of human kind including food, clothing and shelter. They are necessarily a vital cog of the environment. Humankind has reflected fondly about trees, both in song and dance.

A Devarakadu

Trees are more important now than ever before, as today, we wrestle with crucial issues such as global warming and its inevitable consequences.

Kodagu, interestingly, has evolved a very unique method of protecting trees, a model that well-deserves to be emulated the world over.

Welcome to the concept of ‘Devarakadus’: groves or a collection of trees in villages, protected by the free association of the local folk, without any sovereign authority or government organization having much to do with it.

A Scenic View of a Devarakadu

Part of the forest is dedicated to the Gods from Ancient times. ‘Deva’ means God, and ‘Kadu’ means Forest.

Villages across the length and breadth of Kodagu have adopted these groves, varying in size from less than an acre to over 100 acres, and usually in proximity to their abodes, coffee gardens and paddy holdings. A ‘Devarakadu’ basically comprises a group of trees that have been allowed to exist in their pristine and natural state.

Humankind is conspicuous by its absence in these ‘Devarakadus’. Religious offerings are usually conducted once each year within these sacred groves, more as a display of amity between the village folk living in the neighbourhood, than with pomp and splendour.

Attending these offerings would imply trekking a short distance through some uninhabitable terrain occupied by tall, imposing indigenous trees, enjoying the coolness they offer and the mystery of the darkness on account of the thick canopy which blocks out much of the daylight, adding greatly to the ambience.

These ‘Devarakadus’ play an important role in sheltering animals, including honey bees, providing a cool ecosystem, while ensuring receipt of adequate rainfall to those farming around them.

The springs and water canals that channel themselves out of these ‘Devarakadus’ have a serene and calming effect on all life that comes into contact with them.

As over 1000 such designated sites are present in Coorg, covering an area of over 2,000 hectares, different deities are worshipped in these groves.

This village effort is perhaps the only system of its kind in the world, and something Indians ought to be proud of. Kudos to the ‘Devarakadus’ of Coorg!

A Kodava at Home

Most homestay owners are well-off Kodavas – the local name for Coorgis, with a cosmopolitan outlook. Folklore has umpteen tales of the origin and culture of the Kodavas. The common thread running through them is a highly educated martial race with liberal views. What’s interesting is that social evils like dowry or child marriage are unheard of in this community!

A Coorg Wedding Scene

On an ordinary day, they appear like the inconspicuous village folk. However, on auspicious occasions like marriages and festivals, the Kodavas can be seen in all their resplendent glory!

The men are dressed in black knee-length overcoats – Kuppya, that reaches until the elbow with a crimson sash – Chaley and a gilded turban – Mande Tuni. Befitting the warrior tag, they also carry a silver dagger – Peechekathi. The women sport the Indian sari but in an atypical way. The pleats run through the chest from behind, the end of which is clipped with a broach on the right collar bone.

Recent years in Coorg have seen, much to the angst of the elders, an exodus of the young for the lure of the lucre. The grass, as the cliche goes, is always greener on the other side. That’s why I, without a second thought, would love to be in the company of the exquisite Coorg dwellers over and over again!

Chiklihole

My first tryst with Chiklihole was during my third visit to Coorg – perhaps this explains how less explored this place has been…

We chanced upon Chiklihole quite unintentionally as our cab driver drove through it. However, the place left an intentional mark on me. Offering immense peace and tranquility amidst the chaos, Chiklihole got me submerged in its surroundings, and the time simply flew past. With green meadows on one side of the dam and thick forests on the other, Chiklihole is surely a sight to behold.

Karnataka's Periyar

Interestingly, around the water body, there are small, randomly-shaped hillocks formed from the sand found close to the lake side. Sitting on one of them, I felt the calmness and watched the cattle and sheep grazing besides the lake. While speaking to a couple of passers-by, I realized that Chiklihole is a large reservoir, situated on the tributary of River Cauvery. One person I spoke to was a farmer, who indicated that the water from the Chiklihole and Harangi dams are the only source of hope for farmers, especially when the rain gods choose to be spoilt-sports. Water from both dams is supplied to the farmers in the villages, who wait each year for a good yield.  And if the supply from Chiklihole is good, farmers take up growing crops like Jowar, Tobacco, Ginger and Paddy.

This had me visualizing how the Chiklihole irrigation catchment area would look when it is brimming with water. Perhaps, the trees would be further submerged. However, the water is let out into the rivers usually when it gets fuller. The best time to visit this place is between March and June, if one wants to see a dam that is full. Visitors to Coorg must make a stop-over at this place – as it is merely 15 kms from Kushalnagar, located in Northern Kodagu, between Madikeri and Kushalnagar.

The pin-drop silence in this area makes it possible for one to hear the chirping of each bird vividly – a definite stress buster and a must-see for nature lovers. An added attraction is that the Dubare Elephant Camp is just three kilometers from here.

As the sun set over this Periyar-like setting, the shutterbug in me took advantage of the liberal opportunities for photography that this reservoir offered. Walking back, I thought about how there is a little bit of magic in everything and everywhere – Chiklihole for one had cast a magical spell on me!

A Kodava Man in Traditional Attire

Kodagu is characterized by rich wild life and mountainous terrain. This makes it both picturesque and difficult to navigate at the same time. Some of the native trees here are Peepul, Fig, Banyan, Wild Jack (Jackfruit), Cashew, Teak, Nandi, Rosewood, Neem, Silver Oak, Jamoon and Tamarind. The wild life here includes Elephants, Tigers, Leopards, Bison, Wild Boar, Spotted Deer, Barking Deer, Wild Dogs, Porcupine and Hare. Many beautiful birds also inhabit this land.

A Coffee Plantation in Coorg

The estates, forests, streams, rivers, wildlife and lovely weather make this land a heaven for most adventure seekers. Coorg is also one of the very few regions in the country where the ethnic tribes still live on. These include Yeravas, Kurubas, Poleyas and Kudiyas.

These factors put together make a trip to Coorg both exciting and memorable.

The Temple at Bhagamandala

A good old writer friend of mine, Sunder Muthanna, who hails from Coorg, told me interesting facts about the confluence of three rivers at Bhagamandala – Cauvery, Kanika and Sujothi: they are believed to meet at the bottom of the hill at Bhagamandala. His words and the pencil sketch lingered on in my mind- and I went to visit Bhagamandala in one of the many trips I made to Coorg.

And I realized there was more to Bhagamandala than meets the eye…

For one, the tributary Sujothi River is mythical as it is an invisible underground river. Two, this scenic place was once a battlefield, and three, the main temple is a beautiful portrayal of two distinct architectural styles; that of Kerala and Nepal.

While the River Sujothi flows underground, the name for River Kaveri is said to come from the Tamil word ‘kav’, meaning cave and ‘eri’, meaning climbed. This spot of the confluence of the rivers is considered sacred and called the ‘Triveni Sangama’ (meeting point of three rivers), or Kudala. One can see this spot a short distance from the main temple.

As for the battlefield, there is an inscription here which refers to how Bhagamandala was captured and occupied by Tipu Sultan in days of yore (1785–1790). A little reading up in this regard revealed that Tipu Sultan renamed the place Afesalabad, and in 1790, King Dodda Vira Rajendra got it back into an independent Kodagu Kingdom, after a fierce, week-long battle.

The main temple, known as the Sri Bhagandeshwara temple, is constructed in a large, stone courtyard. It possesses pagodas and multi-layered roofs that have a reddish hue. Each pagoda ends in the form of a silver hood of a snake. “Why the hood of a snake?” one might ask. Perhaps because Bhagandeshwara means Lord Shiva, who has a snake wound around his long neck. The temple also hosts idols of other Lords, like Subramanya, Mahavishnu and Ganesha.

Any temple has a legend or belief surrounding it. The belief here is that a visit to the temple will grant Moksha (purge one of all negative influences). Pilgrims throng to take a dip in the Triveni Sangama to perform rituals to their ancestors and participate during the Tula Sankramana festival in October.

Bhagamandala Temple

As I came out of the royal courtyard of Bhagamandala, I thought about the inspired Artist. This is when I saw another element that could have inspired the artist – Mt. Thavoor. I stood face to face with this towering peak overlooking Bhagamandala, close to which the Mt. Koppatti (twin peaks) is located. And I realized that Bhagamandala can also inspire adventure lovers or anyone who wishes to savor the mesmerizing beauty of the Shola forest range!


[(*) Sketch of the temple can be seen at: http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/onlineex/apac/other/zoomify66525.html]

View from atop Talacauvery

On the brighter side, Talacauvery is the source of one of India’s major rivers, the Cauvery. The route it ferociously flows in is quite something — it goes through South and East Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and across the Southern Deccan Plateau, where it forms two islands, Srirangapatna and Shivanasamudra. Did you know that the famous Shivanasamudra Falls is the drop of this river from a height of 320 feet? Finally, it empties into the Bay of Bengal.

Visitors, especially Coorgies have immense faith in this sacred river for the Hindus. They use this water to worship the supreme Mother Goddess – Cauveramme Devi Thayi. And they are not a tad worried about taking their shirts off, or wading in the holy tank to reach the actual spot of the Origin. Here a spring feeds the tank; the tank called the Tirtha or the Brahma Kundike. One needs to walk the short length of the tank – and I observed that a reasonably tall person would be half-submerged in the middle of this tank.

Legend has it that a dip here gives spiritual and healing powers and hence most men and women alike, walk through the pond to its other end, where a priest sprinkles the holy water on them from the originating spring.

Devotees Entering the Kundike

Most natural phenomena have an underlying science. Curious to know more, I spoke to a Coorgie veteran about the science hidden here. He told me that the river originates in the form of a small perennial spring. The river first flows underground and then emerges above the ground over a short distance, at 4,500 feet above sea level. He welcomed me to the auspicious festival of Tulasankramana that occurs in the month of October every year. It is a festival that is celebrated with great enthusiasm – hundreds of pilgrims visit this place to witness the simple and sudden gush of water from the Brahma kundike and do the ‘Walk’ in the Holy Tank.

Where the Bells Toll

As I stood watching the ranges, I knew it was truly breathtaking – both in terms of the views of the Brahamagiri hills and the pace of the wind that blew at me. I wondered, how anything Holy – be it the abodes of Gods, or origin of Rivers is always blessed with a pristine surrounding and a compelling calmness. That is when a line of Thomas Carlyle came to my mind – he had once said ‘Science must have originated in the feeling that something was wrong’ – but with the origin of river Cauvery, to me, everything was right!

The Iguthuppa Temple. Picture Courtesy: Lakshmi Sharath.

It is misty as we climb a small hilltop to the ‘Padi Iguthuppa’ temple in Kakkabe, Coorg. The bells start ringing the moment we enter the temple, as a gentle breeze blows from the rolling hills around. A group of ‘Kodava’ women enter and speak with the priest, Kush Bhat, who welcomes us and insists that we stay for lunch. “No one comes to the Iguthuppa temple and goes away without eating lunch,” he says. He explains that the word ‘Iguthappa’ implies a provider of food, and this deity is a form of ‘Subramanya’ or ‘Muruga’, the son of Shiva.

The Iguthappa temple. Picture Courtesy: Lakshmi Sharath.

“Close your eyes and ask Iguthappa whatever you want… If you have faith, you will get the same,” says Kush Bhatt, adding that centuries back, Shiva and Subramanya came here and loved the hills so much that they decided to settle down in this region. The temple is known to feed anyone who visits it, and all pilgrims offer food, and not money to the deity. “Iguthappa told the people of Coorg that you will never go hungry as long as I’m here, and if you accept me as your God,” explains the priest. Some call him a saint, others say he is one of the four brothers who settled in the hills around the area. But despite the legends, every festival of the Kodavas starts with the invocation of Iguthappa, the most important temple festival being ‘Tulabharam’.

The Iguthappa temple. Picture Courtesy: Lakshmi Sharath.

We also visit another Iguthappa temple in ‘Naljee’ inside a forest, through a lush coffee plantation. There is not a soul around and it is peaceful just listening to the sounds of the forest. These monuments are probably lost to the average tourist, but as a traveler, I realize that one finds sanctity in the silence around them.